STRAWBERRY-ORANGE QUARK TIRAMISU (FAT FREE!)

COUNTDOWN TO SUMMER : SECONDS


And the countdown goes on. I looked out the window yesterday morning and wondered what had happened. Just the day before Spring was tapping at the pane, beckoning me with long, slender fingers of sunshine to come out and play. A promise of warmth and gentle winds and a hint of summer to come. How I yearned to walk outside and feel the midday sun wash over me, be enveloped in the mild breeze and be carried along, mind empty of all winter woes and just bask in the cheerful expectation of the coming springtime, but those hopes were soon dashed to the ground. The following morning, just one day later, we woke to drab skies and the threat of rain and a grumpy dog roaming from room to room looking for that bright spot of sunshine on the carpet. And on top of it all, I had missed my chance to enjoy our one beautiful day: there I was, lying sick in bed, covers pulled up to my chin, groaning for no one to hear. And feeling very sorry for myself. As I cracked open one eye and looked out the window onto that dreary day, a chill in the air, I wondered if Ms. Spring was crying for me as I lay in bed sick, not able to go out and play.

Oh, to be this elegant when sick....

The weather teases, coaxes me into believing that one more winter is done and over, slate-colored skies will turn blue, steel gray, heavy clouds will stomp off leaving fluffy, cotton clouds, airy and light, in their place. Yet here it is playing games, hide and seek, making promises like a coquette, promises she doesn’t mean to keep, flashing her brilliant smile, baring one delicate shoulder, whispering your name, then disappearing as you reach out for her, leaving nothing in your grasp except for the echo of her mocking laugh. Ah, that is April for you, in like a lion, out like a lamb yet in between the two nothing but deception, hope and waiting.

But here it is, another day come and gone and as I stretch and yawn and realize that Mr. Bug has also come and gone leaving me feeling just a little bit brighter, a little closer to normal, I see the sun is back, shining through the shutters and inviting me to downshift one more time into springtime mode.

Springtime should be like this every day...

I detest being sick. I have absolutely no desire whatsoever to eat, and that, my friends, is truly tragic! And when sick I barely make it from one end of the apartment to the other much less outside to shop, so poor JP ended up eating boiled potatoes for dinner. He found them hiding somewhere in their little brown paper bag, boiled them up and ate them with a bit of old bread and a spot of cheese. Poor man. But I was saving all of my own pity for myself so I had little to spare. No, I can’t say that, can I? I felt horrid! Forcing my poor man who works so hard all day long to eat boiled potatoes for dinner? So the following morning I forced myself out of bed, drank a hot cup of coffee and some toast and jam and swore that I would get over this bug. Pronto!

And now it’s done and off I run to market! I love the coming of spring with the occasional sighting of a berry here or an asparagus there, the local fruits and vegetables waving their little arms, calling my name. As the oranges and grapefruit dwindle to the last few golden orbs, as the passion fruit elbow their way in front of the pears, as the local apples give way to their tiny red friends, it’s starting to feel a lot like summer! And that, my friends, is enough to cheer anyone up!


The first local gariguette strawberries from just outside Nantes have finally shown their lovely red faces this week. Nestled in their tiny cartons, they puff out their little strawberry chests and gloat: perfect, plump berries with their thatch of green crowning something so luscious, France’s most famous, beloved strawberries, bright and sugary sweet, juicy and tender, the perfect berry to eat one after the next, fingers staining a gorgeous ruby red, or dusted with sugar that cracks in between your teeth as you scoop up a few slices of the dusted berries and bite down. Or smothered under barely sweetened Chantilly, adding a froth of feminine luxuriousness to something already so sexy as that perfect red jewel-like fruit.


Already at the height of her sweetness, the gariguette calls me over to the market stall and mesmerizes me with her fragrance and perfect little body. I have visions of wrapping her in cream, thick and luscious, pairing her with the last of the season’s oranges, tart and tangy, a kiss of warmth, winter’s brilliant, golden depth against summer’s light sweetness. Add to that a soft bite of ladyfinger, delicate yet dense, drenched in a rich caramel with a kick of orange and a splash of red fruit syrup, snuggling deep in the snowy white cream redolent of vanilla and nutty Amaretto. Mmmmmm. Luxurious, voluptuous, what more could you ask for in a dessert? How about low fat? Ok, you’ve got it! Slide a spoonful between your lips, into your mouth, onto your tongue, taste buds titillated they glide through flavor after flavor, the richness of the cream, the sweet, juicy berries, the glow of the orange, the earthiness of the Amaretto and it is hard to believe that this dessert is low fat. Believe it! So cool and refreshing, you can indulge all summer long! Indulge and enjoy!

Oh happy days! I won my first writing contest! Thank you Matilda and Kendra of Women’s Memoirs, for choosing my piece Remembering Childhood as the winner (tied for first place with Joellyn Simpson Avery) for March’s Food Memoir Contest. I am thrilled and honored! Matilda and Kendra have created a special place for women to gather and share their memories and concentrate on their writing, learning and improving.

STRAWBERRY-ORANGE FAT-FREE QUARK “TIRAMISU”
Makes 4 individual Tiramisu *

*for more, simply increase everything! Easily done!

I played this completely by ear, basing it on a traditional Tiramisu (here and here). Ladyfingers soaked in orange caramel syrup with a couple of tablespoons of a red fruit syrup to taste which can be replaced with a simple blend of freshly squeezed orange juice, a tablespoon or two of Amaretto and any red fruit drink or juice, preferably sugar-free, to taste. Layer it with whatever summery fruit you like, strawberries, raspberries, blueberries or even the last of the season’s ripe, sweet pears or oranges.


About 12 ladyfingers (recipe follows) **
1 pint ripe, sweet, juicy strawberries
1 cup of syrup made with freshly-squeezed orange juice and sugar *** + a red fruit syrup or juice or strawberry purée
2 cups (500 ml) 0% fat fromage frais, quark or even Greek yogurt
About 3 Tbs powdered/confectioner’s sugar to taste
½ vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped out (you will use the seeds not the pod)
2 – 3 Tbs Amaretto or to taste

Make the ladyfingers if not using store bought. Make the orange syrup and allow to cool to room temperature. This can be done well ahead of time. Before using, take about ½ cup or so of the orange syrup and add any red fruit syrup, nectar or juice to taste. If you like, get some extra ripe strawberries and purée them and stir them into the orange syrup to taste. (I used Le Nantillais Fruits Rouges, a non-alcoholic, sweetened fruit preparation used as a base for cocktails). And don't forget that you can always replace the fat-free fromage frais with mascarpone and make a traditional cream Tiramisu.

Le Nantillais

Blend the fromage frais with powdered sugar, the seeds from the vanilla bean and Amaretto to taste. Whisk until well blended and creamy.


Put about a tablespoon of the fromage frais mixture in the bottom of 4 desserts bowls.


Take a ladyfinger and plunge into the orange syrup allowing it to soak up liquid so it is soaked through but not mushy or falling apart, just a few seconds. Place one in each bowl and press gently into the layer of cream. Slice 4 more ladyfingers and plunge into the syrup a piece at a time and snuggle them either side of the whole ladyfingers already in the bowls to fill in the dish to make a complete layer of soaked fingers.


Divide the rest of the fromage frais, reserving about 4 heaping tablespoons, between the 4 glasses, covering the ladyfingers with the cream. Trim the strawberries and slice placing a layer of sliced strawberries in each bowl on top of the layer of cream.


Add a tablespoon (divide the rest of the fromage frais) on top of the sliced berries then decorate the top with more sliced strawberries.

Cover the “Tiramisu” with plastic wrap and allow to chill in the refrigerator for several hours or overnight so the flavors blend and the ladyfingers soften with the juice and cream.

Just before serving, drizzle a bit of the orange syrup over the berries on top then whiz up a final few ladyfingers in a food processor to make large crumbs and sprinkle over the top of each “Tiramisu”. Serve chilled.


** for the Ladyfingers (if you want to see how this looks step by step click here):

3 large eggs, separated
6 Tbs (75 g) sugar
¾ cup (95 g) cake flour, sifted
Pinch of salt
1 tsp vanilla
6 Tbs (50 g) confectioner’s/powdered sugar

Separate the eggs. Place the yolks in a large mixing bowl. Place the whites in a medium-sized metal or plastic bowl and add a pinch of salt. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line 2 large baking or cookie sheets with parchment paper. I “glued” down the corners of the parchment with a dab of softened butter just so the parchment lay flat.

Beat the egg whites on low for 30 seconds then increase the beater speed to high and beat until the whites hold soft peaks. Continue beating while sprinkling on about a tablespoon or 2 of the sugar until the whites are stiff.

Beat the egg yolks with the remaining sugar and the vanilla until thick, pale and the batter forms a ribbon when the beaters are lifted up. Using a spatula, fold the whites into the yolk mixture in 3 parts, alternating with the flour also added in 3 times, until smooth and well blended. Do not overfold.


Fit a pastry bag with a plain tip (or just snip the end off; you could also use a Ziploc bag) and fill with the batter. Pipe the batter into 5" long and 3/4" wide strips (or larger or smaller as needed) leaving about 1" space in between the strips.


Sprinkle half the confectioner's sugar over the ladyfingers and wait for 5 minutes. The sugar will pearl or look wet and glisten.

Now sprinkle the remaining sugar evenly over the ladyfingers. This helps to give the ladyfingers their characteristic crispness.

Bake the ladyfingers for 10 minutes then turn the baking sheets around back to front and continue baking until the fingers are lightly golden, about 5 minutes more depending on your oven.


Remove the baking sheets from the oven and allow to cool slightly before removing them with a metal spatula onto cooling racks to cool completely.


** for the Orange Syrup:
½ cup (100 g) sugar
Scant 1 cup (200 ml) freshly squeezed orange juice
Red fruit juice

Place the sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat and begin warming it. Once the sugar starts to foam and bubble around the edges, slowly add the orange juice. If the sugar starts to re-solidify, don’t worry, as the juice heats it will re-melt. Stir as needed. As soon as the mixture begins to boil and all of the sugar is melted, lower the heat and allow to simmer until it begins to thicken slightly and turns a deeper golden color. You want a syrup not a caramel.

Allow to cool completely before using. Just before using, add a splash of red fruit juice to taste. Or purée extra strawberries and mix into the syrup.

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TIRAMISU

AS YOU LIKE IT… a Daring Baker’s Challenge


I’ve made it pink and girlie, all dressed up in berries and frivolity, drenched in exotic red fruit Nantillais and ready for summer fun. I’ve made it rich and movie-star chic, adorned in sweet, tangy cherries, tender, perfumed chocolate ladyfingers nestled deeply in a luxurious cloak of cool, creamy sophistication. And son goes the oh-so traditional route. But, then again, it’s traditional for a very good reason, isn’t it? He blends and stirs with care and love, eggs cracking, beater whizzing, coffee steeping and the kitchen starts to smell like an old-world café where gentlemen dressed in elegantly tailored suits sip their caffè coretto, deep, dark espresso splashed with the tiniest hint of Amaretto, adding just a touch of mystery and warmth. And then she walks in, long, delicate, cloudlike biscuits bathed in the dark, bitter potion and wrapped in lush, smooth mascarpone, whipped up into ethereal lightness, soft and pale like alabaster skin, lightly kissed by more earthy Amaretto and aromatic vanilla and draped in a velvety blanket of bitter cocoa and then chilled until as cool and deep as the cold, dark gaze of some old film femme fatale. And together it is heaven.


Tiramisu! The most glorious, most perfect of all desserts, divinely rich, lush and voluptuous, a delicacy to savor, spoonful by sensuous spoonful. Let it sleep overnight, do not disturb, then pull it out of its icy resting place and scoop up a morsel and taste, roll it around on the tongue, tickle your taste buds and you’ll discover a luxurious sensation, silk sliding over bare, gently perfumed skin, flavors mingling, bitter coffee and cocoa losing their edge as they meld into one with the delicately sweetened mascarpone cream, followed mischievously by that nutty bite of Amaretto, Tiramisu’s most perfect mate. Tiramisu, cool and comforting all at once, like being pulled out of the cold wind into a warm embrace.


Indulge! I certainly can’t resist! If it’s in the refrigerator I am constantly, surreptitiously sneaking spoonfuls. Too dreamy! It’s my weakness, my guilty pleasure, my one silly foible. My knees go all wobbly and my heart beats just a little quicker when one is near. Tiramisu is always on my sideboard when company rings the bell and an elegant, impressive finale to a meal is called for. So light and airy I can convince myself that just a small dish can’t hurt, that a bare dusting of cocoa powder will satisfy my chocolate craving without pulling me into a whirlpool of chocolate frenzy, that a treat meant to be savored slowly, a delicacy to linger over will appease, will soothe me all evening long like one slow dance or a final glass of champagne.


We discovered Tiramisu, that most Italian of all desserts, while living in Italy. And it was love at first bite. Tiramisu was to be had everywhere, from the family pizzeria to the most refined ristorante. And it was always delightful, rich and creamy and good. Yet now that we are back in France, it is rarer to come across except at our local Italian bistrot or the Italian stand at the marketplace. And, of course, Clem decided several years ago to create his own, to master the Tiramisu, and master he did. He now makes the most outrageously fabulous, delicious Tiramisu on the planet, so captivating, utterly delightful, and thanks to him the barrier for Tiramisu is now set quite high. And I am, I must admit, often disappointed when I taste a Tiramisu elsewhere. One must find the perfect balance of ladyfingers and cream, the perfect quantity of espresso soaked into the fingers leaving them moist rather than soggy, whole yet not dry. The cream must be thick and rich yet creamy and velvety smooth and whipped up to airy lightness. There must be just enough Amaretto and coffee flavor to accentuate, to compliment the delicacy of the mascarpone cream without either being lost or being too bossy. It must simply be, well, perfect.

And this month’s Daring Baker challenge was, of course, Tiramisu. Tiramisu chosen by this month’s fantastic hosts, both dear friends and incredible bakers, Deeba of Passionate About Baking and Aparna of My Diverse Kitchen. Their challenge recipe is a combination of recipes from Carminantonio from The Washington Post, Cordon Bleu at Home and Baking Obsession. Some of the individual recipes I kept as is, others I changed. These are the recipes I followed.


FOR THE TIRAMISU :

PREPARE THE MASCARPONE, THE ZABAGLIONE AND THE VANILLA PASTRY CREAM THE DAY BEFORE ASSEMBLING THE TIRAMISU!

MASCARPONE CHEESE *
Recipe from Vera of Baking Obsession
This recipe makes 12 oz (345 g) mascarpone

2 cups (500 ml) whipping/heavy cream, pasteurized but not ultr-pasteurized, 25% to 36% fat
1 Tbs fresh lemon juice
Bring 1 inch of water to a boil in a wide skillet. Reduce the heat to medium-low so the water is barely simmering. Pour the cream into a medium heat-resistant bowl, then place the bowl into the skillet. Heat the cream, stirring often, to 190 F. If you do not have a thermometer, wait until small bubbles keep trying to push up to the surface.
It will take about 15 minutes of delicate heating. Add the lemon juice and continue heating the mixture, stirring gently, until the cream curdles. Do not expect the same action as you see during ricotta cheese making. All that the whipping cream will do is become thicker, like a well-done crème anglaise. It will cover a back of your wooden spoon thickly. You will see just a few clear whey streaks when you stir. Remove the bowl from the water and let cool for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, line a sieve with four layers of dampened cheesecloth and set it over a bowl. Transfer the mixture into the lined sieve. Do not squeeze the cheese in the cheesecloth or press on its surface (be patient, it will firm up after refrigeration time). Once cooled completely, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate (in the sieve) overnight or up to 24 hours.
Vera’s notes: The first time I made mascarpone I had all doubts if it’d been cooked enough, because of its custard-like texture. Have no fear, it will firm up beautifully in the fridge, and will yet remain lusciously creamy.
Keep refrigerated and use within 3 to 4 days.

* I must admit that my first try at mascarpone was a complete disaster so it ended up being washed down the sink. If I had had more time I would have reworked the recipe using what I learned this first time. Ah well. Luckily, I can easily purchase Italian mascarpone at my grocery store.

LADYFINGERS/SAVOIARDI BISCUITS
Adapted from the original recipe from Cordon Bleu At Home combined with my own recipe
This recipe makes anywhere from 24 to 45 ladyfingers.

3 large eggs, separated
6 Tbs (75 g) sugar
¾ cup (95 g) cake flour, sifted
Pinch of salt
1 tsp vanilla
6 Tbs (50 g) confectioner’s/powdered sugar


Separate the eggs. Place the yolks in a large mixing bowl. Place the whites in a medium-sized metal or plastic bowl and add a pinch of salt. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line 2 large baking or cookie sheets with parchment paper. I “glued” down the corners of the parchment with a dab of softened butter just so the parchment lay flat.

Beat the egg whites on low for 30 seconds then increase the beater speed to high and beat until the whites hold soft peaks. Continue beating while sprinkling on about a tablespoon or 2 of the sugar until the whites are stiff.

Beat the egg yolks with the remaining sugar and the vanilla until thick, pale and the batter forms a ribbon when the beaters are lifted up. Using a spatula, fold the whites into the yolk mixture in 3 parts, alternating with the flour also added in 3 times, until smooth and well blended. Do not overfold.


Fit a pastry bag with a plain tip (or just snip the end off; you could also use a Ziploc bag) and fill with the batter. Pipe the batter into 5" long and 3/4" wide strips (or larger or smaller as needed) leaving about 1" space in between the strips.


Sprinkle half the confectioner's sugar over the ladyfingers and wait for 5 minutes. The sugar will pearl or look wet and glisten.


Now sprinkle the remaining sugar evenly over the ladyfingers. This helps to give the ladyfingers their characteristic crispness.

Bake the ladyfingers for 10 minutes then turn the baking sheets around back to front and continue baking until the fingers are lightly golden, about 5 minutes more depending on your oven.


Remove the baking sheets from the oven and allow to cool slightly before removing them with a metal spatula onto cooling racks to cool completely.


ZABAGLIONE

2 large egg yolks
3 Tbs (50 g) sugar
¼ cup (60 ml) Amaretto (you can replace the Amaretto with Marsala or coffee)
¼ tsp vanilla
½ tsp finely grated lemon zest


Heat water in a double boiler. If you don’t have a double boiler, place a pot with about an inch of water in it on the stove. Place a heat-proof bowl in the pot making sure the bottom does not touch the water.
In a large mixing bowl (or stainless steel mixing bowl), mix together the egg yolks, sugar, the Amaretto (or Marsala/ coffee), vanilla extract and lemon zest. Whisk together until the yolks are fully blended and the mixture looks smooth.


Transfer the mixture to the top of a double boiler or place your bowl over the pan/ pot with simmering water. Cook the egg mixture over low heat, stirring constantly, for about 8 minutes or until it resembles thick custard. It may bubble a bit as it reaches that consistency.


Let cool to room temperature and transfer the zabaglione to a bowl. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight, until thoroughly chilled.

VANILLA PASTRY CREAM

1/4 cup (55g) sugar
1 tablespoon (8g) all purpose flour
1/2 tsp finely grated lemon zest
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 large egg yolk
3/4 cup/175ml whole milk


Mix together the sugar, flour, lemon zest and vanilla extract in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan. To this add the egg yolk and half the milk.


Whisk until smooth. Place the saucepan over low heat and cook, stirring constantly to prevent the mixture from curdling.
Add the remaining milk a little at a time, still stirring constantly. After about 12 minutes the mixture will be thick, free of lumps and beginning to bubble. (If you have a few lumps, don’t worry. You can push the cream through a fine-mesh strainer.)


Transfer the pastry cream to a bowl and cool to room temperature. Cover with plastic film and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight, until thoroughly chilled.

WHIPPED CREAM

1 cup (250 ml) heavy whipping cream at least 25% fat
¼ cup (50 g) sugar **
½ tsp vanilla

** Next time I will use half this amount of sugar or adjust the sugar quantities in the zabaglione and/or pastry cream.

Combine the cream, sugar and vanilla in a chilled mixing bowl and, using chilled beaters, beat for several minutes until thickened and stiff peaks hold.

ASSEMBLE THE TIRAMISU

You will need :

1/3 cup (75 g) mascarpone
The Zabaglione
The Vanilla Pastry Cream
The Whipped Cream
36 more or less Ladyfingers
2 cups (500 ml) strong coffee or espresso at room temperature
2 – 4 Tbs Amaretto to taste, optional
Several tablespoons of unsweetened cocoa powder

Have a your recipient ready, either individual molds, glasses, cups or rings or an 8-inch round dish or ring (as I used) or an 8-inch square baking dish or a rectangular dish of the same volume. (see Clem filling both a glass serving dish as well as individual rings here)

In a mixing bowl, beat the mascarpone, the Zabaglione and the Pastry Cream together just until smooth and creamy. Carefully fold in the Whipped Cream using a spatula. Fold in Amaretto to taste. Place the coffee in a large bowl or soup bowl.


For one ring or dish, place about a ladleful of the mascarpone cream on the bottom and spread evenly. Working quickly, dunk ladyfingers, one at a time, into the espresso or coffee until moist but not soggy. Line the bottom of the ring or the dish with the soaked ladyfingers, pushing them together or using pieces of fingers to fill in any gaps. Spoon a third of the remaining mascarpone mixture over the ladyfingers and spread evenly. Repeat with the imbibed fingers, a third more of the cream, more ladyfingers then finish with cream (I did only 2 layers of ladyfingers rather than 3).


Cover carefully with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.


Before serving, unmold the Tiramisu if in a ring. Sprinkle generously and completely with unsweetened cocoa powder just before serving. Keep uneaten Tiramisu in the refrigerator.


RESULTS :

I found the final mascarpone-zabaglione-pastry cream-whipped cream mixture much too sweet, although the sweetness was less pronounced the second and third days, but I suggest cutting back on the sugar by reducing the quantities a bit in the whipped cream, the zabaglione and the pastry cream each. The ladyfingers are fantastic and in fact I whipped up a second batch right away when I decided to line the edge of the Tiramisu all around in the style of a charlotte. So easy and so delicious! Personally, I still prefer Clem’s Tiramisu; I find it tastier as well as being much simpler to put together. Deeba’s and Aparna’s version is preferred if you do not want to eat raw eggs. And I enjoyed the challenge of the different parts and most definitely will try the mascarpone again.


Please don't forget Blogger Aid H2OPE for Haiti raffle. You have until midnight Sunday 28 February to buy your raffle tickets. For the list of all of the fabulous prizes being raffled and how to purchase your tickets please visit Jeanne's blog Cook Sister!

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CHOCOLATE CHERRY TIRAMISU WITH CHOCOLATE LADYFINGERS

SWEET TOOTH


I often wonder how we acquire our sweet tooth (sweet teeth?). I never doubted but that mine is a genetic trait, passed down through the women of the family. My grandma and my mom, her daughter, could both live on ice cream, and I truly think that my mom does! After a dinner fit for a bird – nibble nibble – she’ll sit on the sofa in front of a good English mystery on tv, half gallon tub of coffee ice cream on her lap, spoon in hand, and savor the rest of the evening, cozy and scrumptious and work her way through the ice cream, one spoonful at a time. And she hates to share!

Like mother, like daughter. Coffee ice cream runs through our veins. She started me off well before I even drank coffee, mixing up tall, gorgeous, icy cold glasses of sweetened iced coffee. I would dash up and steal sips, loving the creamy, sugary goodness, the iciness of her drink, coffee yet tasting so much like dessert. Now I can eat coffee ice cream almost as well as she. Although I do alternate mine with meals…


And mother and daughter are the perfect partners in crime. When I visit, she takes me to the Russian Diner for lunch, sandwiches or a hot meal. Empty plates cleared away (or, more often than not, leftovers scraped into take-home containers for later) and the waitress asks “Dessert?” We look at each other and grin. Our only dilemma is the flavor of the cream pie to order, but always with two forks. Huge monster slabs of chocolate or coconut cream pie, towering ever so high under mounds of whipped cream. We have absolutely no problem cleaning this baby up! We are dessert girls!


Trips to the mall with mom always end up with icy mocha shakes and a stop at Grimaldi’s Homemade Chocolates on the way home to pick up my yearly fix of chocolate-covered potato chips and a small box of Coconut Patties (dipped in chocolate, thank you very much!).

And sister Sue can join in, the more the merrier, as she has the same genetic leaning. When I’m visiting mom’s, Sue drives over for the weekend and what a blast we have. We immediately jump in her car and drive to the donut place, picking up a dozen of our favorite flavors, Boston Cream and raspberry jelly filled, chocolate glazed and cinnamon-sugar. And we eat them all ourselves. A weekend together, no matter how brief, always includes a trip to the grocery store (heaven is an American grocery store!) and we never hesitate to pile our shopping cart high with sweets, boxed cakes and more donuts, ice cream by the gallon and throw in a box of Fudgsicles, and we end with a detour through the bakery section, taking one of those and one of these, and maybe we should even try this. We roll out of the place laughing hysterically, excited by our stash and thrilled with the sweet weekend that lies ahead of us, the plans to loll around the house and eat together, laughing, always laughing!


The menfolk can turn down dessert with a wave of their hand, a shrug of the shoulders, merely because they are full from their meal. I never understood this insouciance where dessert was concerned. Okay, I have been known to turn it down, but usually when no one else was taking (oh, those Friday nights out with husband and sons!), too embarrassed to be the only one. But happily do I eat with mom and sister. At any restaurant, dessert menus handed round, the men rub their tummies and push themselves away from the table and say “No, thanks. Not for me.” Mom may hem and haw a bit for the show of it, but always orders something, straight-faced, as a matter of course, no excuses. Sue and I giggle and elbow each other like teen girls laughing over their first crush, “Go on! I will if you will!” and the deal is done. At home, we women rifle through the fridge or freezer whenever the call comes, whenever the Sweet Fairy taps us on the shoulder and whispers in our ear “Darling daughter, aren’t you craving something sweet right about now?”


JP never was much of sweet tooth, didn’t grow up with tubs of ice cream in the freezer or boxes of cookies on the countertop. No sheet pans of marble cake or bowls of chocolate pudding piled high with whipped cream. He, like his sons, will turn down dessert or that four o’clock snack regularly. JP rarely eats boxed cookies and our boys have particular tastes. But my homemade cakes and cookies are more often than not quite welcome, and something rich and creamy and decadent is manna from heaven. Clem taught me how to make the perfect Tiramisu and he is often requested to throw one together. But I have taken his recipe and fooled around with it a bit, though sticking religiously to the basics; something so heavenly, so incredibly perfect shouldn’t be toyed with! And this is perfect for anyone’s sweet tooth. Even those with less of a sweet tooth than mine can’t resist, and a fabulous, dreamy, smooth Tiramisu doesn’t stay around our kitchen for long.

I have decided to send this over to Anna of London Foodie in New York who is hosting this week’s Blogger Secret Ingredient. A woman after my own heart – and sweet tooth – Anna has chosen Chocolate as this week’s BSI!

A STUNNING CHOCOLATE CHERRY TIRAMISU


Let’s start with the CHOCOLATE LADYFINGERS

These ladyfingers are best eaten fresh if they aren’t to be used in a dessert. Try and fit them all in the oven in one batch, at most two, because they tend to flatten and get too dense if left waiting. Perfect for this Tiramisu.

5 large eggs, separated
2/3 cups sugar, divided
1 tsp vanilla
1 cup flour
4 Tbs cocoa powder
½ tsp cinnamon
Confectioner’s or powdered sugar to top


Preheat oven to 350°F (160°C). Line 2 large cookie sheets with parchment paper and set aside. Fit a pastry bag with a ½” wide plain tube. Place the egg whites in a large bowl, preferably plastic, and add a couple of grains of salt and a drop or two of lemon juice to stabilize them.

In a large mixing bowl, beat the eggs yolks, 1/3 cup of the sugar and the vanilla with an electric mixer until very thick and creamy; when the beaters are lifted up, the ribbon of batter that falls should maintain a pattern for about 10 seconds. This may take up to 5 minutes of beating.


Sift the flour, cocoa powder and cinnamon together. Add this to the yolks a tablespoon at a time while beating on low speed. Mixture becomes very dry.


In a separate bowl with very clean beaters, beat the whites until they form soft peaks. Gradually add the remaining 1/3 cup sugar while beating and continue until stiff peaks form, firm and glossy, not dry.

Spoon ¼ of the whites into the yolk/cocoa mixture and beat on low speed until blended. Fold in the remaining whites by hand until smooth.

Mine had some lumps in them, maybe because I didn't whip the first batch of whites in enough.

Place the batter into the pastry bag and pipe out fingers about 3” long (if using these for a charlotte, pipe them the height of the mold). Leave room between the fingers to allow for spreading.


Generously sieve the powdered sugar onto the chocolate fingers. Bake for about 20 minutes until the fingers are puffed and firm but not browned.


Remove from the oven and allow to cool briefly on the baking sheet before removing to cooling racks to cool completely before using in the Tiramisu.


CHOCOLATE CHERRY TIRAMISU

About 36 chocolate ladyfingers
1 jar of cherries, drained over a bowl, juice reserved
2 Tbs Kirsch

4 large eggs, separated
2 cups (500 g) mascarpone (I had extra as my pots were 300 g each instead of 250 g)
½ cup (100 g) sugar
1 tsp vanilla
Cocoa powder


Stir the Kirsch into the cherry juice and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, beat the egg yolks until pale and very thick. Beat in the sugar. Beat the mascarpone quickly with the same beaters just to make it creamy before folding or beating it into the yolks. Stir in the vanilla.


Stabilize the whites by adding a couple of grains of salt and a drop or two of lemon juice. In a very clean bowl with very clean beaters, beat the whites until stiff, glossy peaks form.


Gently fold the whites into the yolk/mascarpone mixture until completely smooth.


In one large glass serving dish or several small (I used two 3-inch ring molds, 2 single-serving glass bowls and 1 small glass serving dish), place a small amount of the mascarpone cream and smear evenly along the bottom.

Dunk ladyfinger by ladyfinger in the cherry juice/Kirsch blend until just soaked through but before it is too soggy and falls apart. Line the bottom of the molds completely with the fingers, cutting them to fit if need be and pressing them together.


Layer half of the remaining mascarpone cream on top of the first layer of ladyfingers and spread evenly all the way to the edges. Line with cherries, as many or as few as you like.
Dunk and lay another layer of ladyfingers over the mascarpone/cherries, then complete with the rest of the mascarpone cream on top of the ladyfingers.


You should have: A dab of cream, drenched ladyfingers, mascarpone cream, cherries, ladyfingers, mascarpone up to the top of your mold/dish.

Sieve a heavy coat of cocoa powder all over the top of the Tiramisu. Decorate with more cherries if you like.


Refrigerate a few hours before serving. If using metal rings, gently slide a knife around the rim then gently lift the mold straight up off of the Tiramisu.

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