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‏إظهار الرسائل ذات التسميات smoked salmon. إظهار كافة الرسائل
‏إظهار الرسائل ذات التسميات smoked salmon. إظهار كافة الرسائل

JP’S LASAGNA two ways

WHEN A MAN LOVES A WOMAN

When you love someone, all your saved-up wishes start coming out.
~ by Elizabeth Bowen (1899-1973)


Stunning jewelry, expensive shoes, evenings tête-à-tête in quiet, elegant restaurants or a stroll through a bustling, noisy, laughter-filled fairground. Romantic getaways in some out-of-the-way, secluded spot or a picnic in the breeze of a warm summer day. Snuggled up together as the lights are dimmed and the movie splashes across the screen, box of hot, buttery popcorn perched between my knees or jetting off to some exotic, exciting far away dream location. Armfuls of roses or peonies, boxes of chocolate or a hot, greasy kabob with fries. Charming, often sophisticated gifts wrapped up in a dash of mystery, a jot of quirkiness bordering on the corny, smothered in some enchanted evening and definitely the way to capture a girl’s heart. With each token of love that he places in my hands, each sign of affection that he graciously and generously offers me, with each excited schoolboy grin that melts my heart as he impatiently, nervously watches for my reaction, I understand and appreciate how much he does love me.


Yet. Yet. I would be a fool to refuse these lovely gifts, I mean, what woman would? Yet I really don’t need those expensive toys and luxurious gewgaws to make me truly happy. There is something that means ever so much more to me; something that captures my heart and makes me realize just how lucky I am to have him. Yes, anyone who reads my blog and who knows me as a friend understands that the one thing that I find the sexiest, the most alluring and heart melting, is a man who cooks.

And mine does indeed love to cook. He adores going to the market, basket in hand, and perusing stall after stall in his quest for the freshest, most seasonal and local products from the land, the sea and dug up from the dirt. And like a magician finding pleasure and satisfaction in delighting his audience, JP finds such joy in performing that magic, concocting something amazing with his finds and enchanting his audience of one. I have already told the tale of how he became such a great cook, teaching himself while still a child. And his talent and passion have only grown over the years. Needless to say, on holidays, weekends and summer vacations, when free from the stranglehold of work and a time-consuming job, my man takes over the kitchen. And as one who would prefer to spend any and all kitchen time baking pastries, cakes, pies and breads and who knocks her head against the wall in any effort to decide on an actual meal, I would certainly never stand in between him and the stove!


Now that he is home fulltime, our days intertwine gently, serenely and happily. We still, after all these years, enjoy being together all the time. And in between the writing, the long walks, the genealogy, housework, bills and whatever daily tasks keep us busy and apart, we still get together to shop and cook. And while I have somehow grown lazy and complacent, his energy is abuzz and that has been taking him into the kitchen much more often. He channels his creativity and lets his imagination fly.

And how he adores the process: pots and pans clatter, flour poofs all around him in a haze of white, tomato sauce and olive oil splatter across the stovetop, dishes, utensils, pots and pans pile up willy-nilly in the sink and in tumultuous confusion on every available work surface. He chops and slices, blends and stirs, tastes and tastes again. A twist of the peppermill here, a dash or two (or three) of fleur de sel there, a squeeze of this tube, a blob or a glug or a plop of this flavoring or that condiment, a largish pinch of one or the other spice and, like a great inventor, he slowly creates a dish worthy of every minute, every movement, every frustrated curse word and each moan of pleasure as he tastes. Yes, sometimes these preparations are fraught with displeasure – a failed dish, missing ingredients, cooking disasters - or even danger - sliced fingers, trips to the emergency room – but all in all, he loves cooking as much as I love having him cook.


Now how to put down on paper what he creates by feel and sense? Au pif the French call it: cooking by intuition (pif being slang for nose). His recipes are never the same twice, he rarely measures; his method involves non-stop changing, adapting and adding as he goes. As this is in direct contrast to the way I cook or bake, I am more often than not banned from the kitchen whenever he takes over (to avoid my meddling, my interfering, my moans of frustration, the groans and eye rolls and unwanted suggestions) so even writing down the step-by-step becomes problematic if not downright impossible. When he cooks, my role is simply to make sure that the table is set for when he is ready to serve the meal, to make ooooohing, ahhhhhing and mmmmmming sounds while I savor and enjoy his masterpiece and to wash up when the meal is done – a Herculean task if ever there was one.

Veal Lasagna

Smoked Salmon Lasagna

So, I take a deep breath and will attempt to organize my thoughts and his every gesture, although I give very rough guestimates. You must learn to cook as he does, au pif, and create your own…


JP’S FABULOUS LASAGNA
Whether made with sautéed, aromatic veal or luxurious smoke salmon, his lasagna is fabulous! Add more or less of each vegetable or use your favorites. Layer some mozzarella or fontina or a mixture of ricotta and Parmesan in with the layers of béchamel for a cheesier lasagna. Use more tomato sauce with a meat lasagna than in a delicate smoked salmon lasagna. Don’t forget that everything added to this is precooked so the time in the oven is simply to heat through, melt the cheese and meld the flavors.


For a glass or Pyrex baking dish approximately 12 x 8 x 2 inches (30 x 20 x 5 cm), greased with either butter or margarine

10 or 12 sheets (each sheet approximately 7 x 3 ½ inches (17 x 9 cm) egg lasagna

Béchamel:
3 Tbs (50 g) unsalted butter
3 Tbs (50 g) flour
2 – 2 ½ cups (500 to 650 ml) milk, preferably warm or room temperature
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Large pinch nutmeg
Optional: 1 small onion, minced

Tomato Sauce
(see recipes here or here)

3 medium to large peppers, yellow, red and green, rinsed

1 – 2 medium-sized zucchini, trimmed and rinsed

2 pounds (1 kg) fresh spinach, trimmed and rinsed

1 cup or so freshly grated Parmesan cheese

EITHER:
1 pound (500 g) ground veal
1 onion, diced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
seasonings of choice

OR:
About 8 slices smoked salmon, more or less to your taste

Prepare the Béchamel:

Melt the butter over a medium-low flame. Add the flour all at once and whisk to form a thick, smooth paste. (If adding the onion, simply add the onion to the melted butter and sautée until lightly golden and tender, about 3 or 4 minutes, then add the flour) Cook, whisking, over medium-low heat, for just a minute or two. Pour in the milk just a little at a time, whisking constantly, adding more milk as the sauce thickens. Once all the milk has been added, salt and pepper the béchamel, add a dash of nutmeg and continue to stir or whisk until the sauce is thick and very smooth, about 10 minutes or so. Set aside.

Prepare the vegetables:

Place the cleaned spinach leaves in a large casserole with just the water clinging to the leaves once washed. Cover and steam over medium heat until wilted. Drain well then, once cool enough to handle easily, squeeze out all the excess water. Separate between your fingers or chop.

Roast the peppers either over a flame on your stovetop or under the oven grill until very soft and the skin is charred and bubbles up. If doing this in the oven, do it over a baking sheet or piece of aluminum foil to catch any dripped juice. Place the peppers in a plastic sandwich bag for a minute or two: the condensation will lift the skin up away from the flesh and removing it will be easier. Being careful not to burn yourself on the hot peppers, slide a sharp, pointed knife blade between the skin and the flesh and lift away. Once all the skin has been removed and discarded, cut out the stem and scrape away and discard all seeds. Slice or chop the flesh of the roasted peppers as you like.

Rinse and pat dry 2 medium zucchinis, trim and discard the two ends of each. Cut each zucchini in half widthwise. Slice each half lengthwise into thin slices and line up on parchment paper-lined baking sheets. Lightly brush each slice with olive oil then grill until tender and beginning to color.

If using ground veal, simply brown in olive oil in a large skillet as you would for any dish: sautée an onion or two until golden or even caramelized, sautée the veal until browned: salt, pepper and spice as you please (chopped fresh or dried parsley, basil, oregano). Add some chopped, roasted cherry tomatoes or chopped olives if you like.

Prepare the Lasagna:

Start with a light layer of béchamel in the bottom of the baking dish;
Place one layer of lasagna noodles.
Simply add layers of vegetables, veal or smoke salmon, tomato sauce, béchamel and lasagna noodles. You should have about 3 layers of each, ending with a layer of noodles, then béchamel topped generously with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Bake in a preheated 350°F (180°C) oven for about 20 minutes until bubbly and very hot all the way through. The top should be browned. You can also just place it under the grill for a minute or two to brown the top if you like.


Serve hot with a glass of wine.


MATZOH BREI TWO WAYS: SWEET (APPLE) & SAVORY (SMOKED SALMON)

A TWO-FER

Who doesn’t love getting two for the price of one? Two drinks for the price of one at your favorite bar’s Happy Hour? Two sweaters for the price of one at your favorite shop? Two bags of bagels for the price of one with a coupon? Two shoes for the price of one….ok, that was just to see if you were on your toes, no pun intended. But you get my point.

Oh my! Two for the price of one?

Here is my two-fer…. Two recipes for the same dish, one savory, one sweet. How nice is that?

Savory: Matzoh Brei with Caramelized Onions and Smoked Salmon

Sweet: Matzoh Brei with Caramelized Apples and Cinnamon-Sugar

Passover is the most difficult of the Jewish holidays to “sell” to a non-Jewish spouse. Hanukkah is fine, candles and prayers offering a beautiful ambiance, quickly followed by gifts, excited children, chocolate coins and hot, crispy potato pancakes eaten right off the griddle, smothered in applesauce. Or donuts. Or anything fried. For 8 glorious days and nights. Exciting stories of warriors and ancient lands.

Shabbat, the Sabbath, is welcome, Friday night, the calm oasis at the end of a harsh working week. He walks in the house, TGIF, to the glow of the warm candles on a beautifully set table laden with a special meal and a still-warm-from-the-oven homemade Challah. No work, just a tranquil family-oriented evening.

But Passover means clearing out the house of bread, cake, cookies and all the good stuff as they know it; no rice, no pasta, no flour or yeast. No run downstairs to the corner boulangerie for the lunch-time baguette or that once-a-week homemade pizza night. There have been years when I kept a strict house when he has revolted, around the 6th or 7th night, exhorting that there is no way he can go the entire holiday, those seemingly endless 8 days, 8 lunches, 8 dinners, without bread!


Ok, I have to admit that as the years sail by, as the boys get older, I observe less and less. The matzoh comes out, the Passover-friendly cakes and cookies get baked – and they are scrumptious – the light-as-air, meltingly smooth, tender but chewy hazelnut macaroons, the rich almond-scented flourless chocolate tortes, whipped cream-filled chocolate rolls, even Passover-friendly muffins. But still, trying to convince a Frenchman, no matter how atypical, to go without his end-of-meal bread and cheese is tantamount to deprivation.

So out the window with the traditional, strict rules and in with the “everyone does as he or she sees fit”. So plate of matzoh co-exists happily with the baguette, the macaroons sit side-by-side with the croissants. But I still try and serve holiday-appropriate meals, matzoh coated chicken pieces or fish baked with a crunchy matzoh-pistachio topping. And everything is truly appreciated.

One thing that I have never tried to make before is Matzoh Brei. This is something like a matzoh frittata, matzoh soaked and softened in a bit of water then mixed and cooked with beaten eggs. Rather plain, but for a multitude of mix-in or topping possibilities. I realy don’t remember if my mom ever made this when we were young, but somehow I have visions of dried out, near-burnt, overcooked eggs, which I detest. And you know how it is? These images haunt your taste bud memories, so every time someone mentions this particular dish, the horrible flavor comes right back to you.

JP was sick this weekend, battling an oncoming flu, trying to nip it in the bud. So what made me decide to offer him a duo of Matzoh Brei? Don’t know, but after he ate the savory one, he complimented me and said “Thanks to this, I am on the road to recovery!” Who says that chicken soup is the only Jewish penicillin?

SAVORY MATZOH BREI WITH CARAMELIZED ONIONS AND SMOKED SALMON
Serves 2

2 ½ sheets of matzoh, plain or egg
2/3 cups (about 160 ml) water
3 Tbs (45 g) butter, unsalted or salted (though if using salted, watch how much salt you add)
2 large eggs, beaten
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
1 medium onion
Pinch sugar
2 generous slices of smoked salmon or lox
a few tablespoons of sour cream for serving


Peel the onion, cut it in half, then slice each half into fairly thin slices.


Put half of the butter in a non-stick frying pan over medium heat. When the butter is hot, melted and bubbly, toss in the onion slices and fry with a pinch of sugar, for 5 – 7 minutes until crispy golden brown and caramelized. Remove from the pan into a bowl and set aside.


Meanwhile, break up the matzoh into roughly 2-inch (5 cm) pieces and place in a large bowl. Pour the water over the matzoh pieces and toss, soaking all of the matzoh until soft but not mushy, about 30 – 60 seconds is all it took me. They will continue to soften once added to the beaten eggs. Drain off the excess water.


Add the softened matzoh to the beaten eggs and stir well until all the matzoh has soaked up the egg. Salt and pepper.


Add the caramelized onions and stir until well combined and evenly distributed.


Heat the rest of the butter in the same frying pan until hot, melted and starting to bubble. Pour on the egg/matzoh mixture and flatten it out into a large pancake or frittata, if you will, with the back of a wooden spoon or spatula.


Fry for about 4 minutes until the underside is golden brown and set.

Carefully flip the frittata over, trying not to break it. I thought of placing a large serving platter on top of the pan, flipping, then sliding the frittata back into the pan, cooked side up, but I didn’t trust myself. So I used two wide spatulas and it worked perfectly.


Let the other side cook, maybe 3 minutes or so (watch carefully). When the second side is golden and the matzoh brei is set, slide off onto a serving platter.


Carefully slice the Matzoh Brei in two, placing half on each of two plates. Lay a slice of smoked fish on top of each with a dollop or two of sour cream and serve immediately.


SWEET MATZOH BREI WITH CARAMELIZED APPLES AND CINNAMON SUGAR
Serves 2

2 ½ sheets of matzoh, plain or egg
2/3 cups (about 160 ml) water
3 Tbs (45 g) unsalted butter
2 large eggs, beaten
Pinch of salt
1 large or 2 small apples
Cinnamon-sugar (1/2 cup (100 g) sugar + 2 tsps ground cinnamon)

* To fry the apple chunks, I used leftover Honey-Cinnamon Butter. You can also drizzle on a teaspoon or so of maple syrup instead of the cinnamon-sugar, if you like.


Peel and core the apples and cut into small chunks.


Heat half the butter (or equivalent amount of Honey Spice Butter) in a large frying pan until hot, melted and bubbly. Add the apple chunks and toss until coated. If just using plain, unsalted butter, sprinkle on a teaspoon or two of the cinnamon-sugar mixture to caramelize. Or drizzle on some maple syrup.


Fry, stirring and tossing constantly, until golden and soft, but not mush. Remove from the pan and set aside.

Meanwhile, break up the matzoh into roughly 2-inch (5 cm) pieces and place in a large bowl. Pour the water over the matzoh pieces and toss, soaking all of the matzoh until soft but not mushy, about 30 – 60 seconds is all it took me. They will continue to soften once added to the beaten eggs. Drain off the excess water.

Add the softened matzoh to the beaten eggs and stir well until all the matzoh has soaked up the egg. Add just a pinch of salt.

Add the caramelized apple chunks to the egg/matzoh mixture along with whatever sweet, flavored butter is in the pan, stirring until combined and evenly distributed.


Follow the cooking instructions given above for the Savory Matzoh Brei until both sides are cooked and golden and the eggs are set.


Slide off the finished Matzoh Brei to a plate and sprinkle with cinnamon-sugar. Carefully slice in half and place each half on one plate. Serve immediately with more cinnamon-sugar and applesauce, if desired.


This is a fabulous Passover replacement for apple pie if you so crave this dessert during the holidays. You can always add more apples if you want it fruitier. Or replace the apples with pears or even drained, canned or fresh-cubed pineapple chunks.

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