Recent Movies
‏إظهار الرسائل ذات التسميات lamb. إظهار كافة الرسائل
‏إظهار الرسائل ذات التسميات lamb. إظهار كافة الرسائل

Lamb Curry – Sautée de Mouton au Curry

SAYING GOODBYE, COMING HOME

Sadness flies on the wings of the morning 
and out of the heart of darkness comes the light. 
- Jean Giraudoux 


Husband flew down to the south of France last Monday. He joined his sisters to say a final goodbye to his mother, Madeleine. Her last wish, this simple, homey, old-fashioned woman, was to be cremated, her ashes blended with those of her husband and her brother and the ashes strewn into the wind. She was a woman who asked very little of others, who gave much, gave what she could, and her passing, though expected, was sad indeed.

I was in the kitchen with my mother-in-law shortly after JP and I had announced that we would be getting married, helping her with the dishes after a Sunday lunch and she leaned towards me and confided “We knew it was serious when he brought you home to join us for Christmas dinner; just the very act of him bringing you here to meet us and we knew. He never brings girls home!” And we bonded just like that. Of course, there was the ritual pulling out of black and white photographs of American soldiers, the army men who liberated their northern French city at the end of the war, who brought them chocolate and cigarettes and made them feel proud, happy and secure once again. The tiny photos with the signature and a personal note written across the back was an object of pride and memory for these good, grateful people and it was shown to me excitedly as they recounted tales of meeting those Americans, the only Americans they had ever met before me some forty or so years later. They were tickled pink.

And I gave them their first grandson, a gift indeed.


Baking with grandmère

Snuggles with grandmère and grandpère

They accepted me with all of my oddities, my stumbling, imperfect French, my American ways and my Jewish religion, accepted me as a welcome part of their family. Over the years, I spent innumerable weekends and vacations in their home, innumerable Sunday lunches at their table eating blanquette, poulet roti frites, pot au feu or roast beef. Innumerable summer afternoons up in the branches of the big cherry tree in their yard or my arm stuck deep into the raspberry bushes tenderly pulling off each bright red berry, playing boules, petanque with the kids, bare feet in the soft grass. Innumerable Christmases watching the boys hang decorations and tinsel on the tree, set up the tiny crèche (that my little Jewish son explained as “Marie, le bonhomme, le bébé et les animaux”…), exchanging gifts.

Life was simple and cozy chez grandmère et grandpère

What a treat for the little boys to spend holidays and vacations with grandmère and grandpère out at the house on the hill, in the lost little village of barely 300 souls surrounded by green and cows and countryside. They were spoiled as only indulgent grandparents can spoil. We were living in Italy and as soon as Clem was old enough to fly unaccompanied, at the grand old age of 4, we began sending him north. Two years later he was joined by his baby brother, the fragile one, the persnickety one. I warned Madeleine that he was a tough one to deal with, especially in all matters food. I sent her a list of his likes and dislikes and she laughed and told me not to worry, she had years of experience dealing with children. A week or so later, I called to check in, and check up on the boys. “How is Simon doing?” I asked, worried out of my mind. “Is he eating?” “Oh!”, she assured me, “I have absolutely no problem with Simon! He eats everything I give him…clean plate at every meal!” “Oh, what are you feeding him?” I asked, wondering what I had been doing wrong for all these years. “White rice! I ask him before every meal what he would like, he answers ‘rice’ and I make him rice and he cleans his plate!” she said, without a hint of irony in her voice, proud as a peacock.

In grandpère's vegetable garden with Tonton Claude

Games in the garden under the cherry tree

She and I were as different as night and day, our backgrounds, our upbringing, our ideology and outlook on life, but we got along like a house on fire. She was kind and gentle, as smart as she was simple and straightforward and offered advice when I asked for it. We may have disagreed on how to raise children, feed and clothe them, but she loved the boys and they loved her and their relationship was perfect. She sat them at the kitchen table and let them help her cook, peel vegetables and press pâte sablée into the pie dish. She and my father-in-law taught them card games and board games with the patience of saints, racking up hours upon hours of rummy and scrabble, boggle and belotte, treating the boys as intellectual equals. Mornings spent in the vegetable garden with grandpère, afternoons in the tiny plastic swimming pool or sitting under the cherry tree looking at comic books, always rewarded with an ice cream. Over the years, my boys learned so much from their grandparents, mostly the joy of spending time with another generation.


When JP arrived back home, I had prepared a hot meal for him, a cross between his simple lamb curry sautée and his Sweet and Savory Lamb Stew with Raisins. A hot meal, a warming, soulful, filling meal to welcome him home and comfort his weary body and his sore heart. Dessert was my Ricotta Tart with Pears (this week’s Plated Stories’ recipe). Clem joined us and we dined as a family to the shimmering glow of the Hanukkah candles.


LAMB CURRY – SAUTÉE DE MOUTON AU CURRY

Stewing lamb (shoulder, neck, chops, etc) for 4 – about 800 g to 1 kg – in large chunks
Margarine + olive oil for sautéing
About 2 Tbs flour
1 large yellow or white onion, peeled, trimmed and coarsely chopped
½ red or green pepper, cleaned, trimmed, seeded and coarsely chopped
1/3 to ½ green chili (mild or hot, as you like), trimmed, seeds removed and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed but left whole
1 Tbs tomato paste
2 tsps good curry powder
1 bay leaf
Salt and pepper
1 medium long or round zucchini, peeled and cubed
2 Tbs golden raisins

Heat about a tablespoon each of margarine and olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven until hot and steaming. Add the chunks of lamb and brown on all sides. Remove the lamb from the pot onto a plate when browned.

Put more margarine and olive oil in the hot pot and add the chopped onion, red or green pepper, hot chili and the garlic clove and sautée, stirring often, until the onion is tender, transparent and beginning to color around the edges. Remove and discard the clove of garlic. Add the flour and, stirring continuously, cook for another 2 – 3 minutes until it no longer smells like flour. Deglaze with a bit of water (melt and scrape up the brown bits on the bottom of the pot) and then stir in the tomato paste, the curry powder, the bay leaf, salt and pepper. Add the lamb back to the post and add water just to cover. Bring to the boil then lower the heat, cover and simmer for 30 minutes.

At the end of 30 minutes, add the cubed zucchini and the raisins, cover the pot again and cook for another 45 minutes to an hour or until the meat is fork tender.

When the lamb is tender, check the sauce: taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more salt or pepper as needed; if the sauce is too watery, simply allow to simmer uncovered for a bit until it thickens.

Serve hot over rice or couscous grains.


Sweet and Savory Lamb Stew with Raisins

AUTUMN LEAVES

Let the stoics say what they please, we do not eat for the good of living, 
but because the meat is savory and the appetite is keen. 
Ralph Waldo Emerson 


Autumn is many things in France. First and foremost, it is la rentrée. The start of the school year, back to work after a long, long vacation, the opening of a new session of parliament, the return of the regular newscasters and the customary run of television series. We settle back into a routine, a rhythm of life that the French describe as métro-boulot-dodo, commute-work-sleep. The daily grind. The same old, same old.

Autumn is the rainy season, storm sliding into drizzle, suddenly lighting up in a blaze of sunlight then dimming into gray, that invisible mist hitting you in the face, cold and wet, as you step outside, clinging to your skin, slithering into your coat collar and soaking the bottom three inches of your jeans. Back and forth, steely skies, hazy clouds hanging low and heavy masking the sun, which filters milky white and dull through the windows, a burst of light amid clear blue back to muddy skies and rain. Leaves in shades of gold and red line the sidewalks and streets yet form a swathe of sticky, matted carpet underfoot. The autumn weather in France is unpredictable, as unpredictable as the mood of the French themselves as the season whips into manif mode as well.



Le manif. The manifestation. Autumn in France is the season when the noise and brouhaha of demonstrations, carried along on the breeze, rise up to us from the streets below. From a mere handful of faithful partisans to a mob of angry hundreds, on foot, motorcycle or tractor, carrying flags and yelping through megaphones to the beat of some indecipherable chant or to the beat of something disco blaring from a truck, the disgruntled French take to the streets to demonstrate their discontent. We watch as the furious French block roads, close factories, barricade schools, overturn trucks of produce, crash through fences and gates, burn garbage and yank down radars in a seemingly never-ending ritual of protest. Under Autumn skies, when the sun is out and warm on our skin, these manifs just seem quaint and colorful, a part of the daily life in France along with the abundance of stunning produce on market stalls, warm, flakey croissants and sugary sweet popcorn at the cinema.



We have finally turned on the heat in the apartment, chasing the dampness and chill, creating a cozy nest as we keep inside, sandwiched between the rain outside the windows and the havoc wreaked by the demonstrators we see on television. We watch both warily, judgmentally, as we comment through gritted teeth, emitting grunts as the images flick by, as the rain spatters the sill. The sons pop in and out, clamoring for grilled cheese sandwiches, eaten on the run. School and work keep them moving, rarely here, busy bees. I watch the cherry pickers parked around town, huge monsters with silvery Christmas decorations clutched in their maws. Each time I leave the apartment, one more is strung up glowing in red and white; how I love the holidays.

Husband and I continue our cooking streak. We have been attempting to rein in the budget by shopping more intelligently, more purposefully and cooking more, leaving the laziness of takeout, the complacency of ready made behind. Back to basics, back to the way we used to cook. He is more often than not the one at the stove. Stews, tagines, couscous are his thing, turning even the cheapest cuts of meat, the earthiest of vegetables, reminiscent of the Old Country, into something spectacular. Potatoes and onions, carrots and zucchini, cabbage, beets, garlic and beans, chicken legs and beef tails metamorphose into rich, consoling, health-giving, heart-warming meals.


As much as I love sweet and savory dishes, fruit satisfying my sweet tooth yet somehow balancing perfectly with the meat, ambrosia for the soul, he does not. It is rare that he adds fruit to a meat dish, yet for some odd reason, he was in the mood for sweet. We had lamb, onions, garlic, peppers and zucchini. He tossed in golden raisins remaining from the last couscous; he caramelized the onions with sugar and deglazed the pan with cider vinegar. What he created was a gorgeous stew, the lamb falling apart it was so tender, the sauce thick and savory sweet, full of flavor. We neither of us expected something so outrageously good. And we settled into pure contentment.


Don't miss out on the very first Plated Stories workshop! Ilva Beretta and I are partnering with Tuscan Muse and holding an extraoridnary 10-day Tuscan adventure which includes a food writing & photography/styling workshop in the heart of Tuscany next May. Find out all about it on the Plated Stories blog or on the Tuscan Muse website.


Taste, which enables us to distinguish all that has a flavor from that which is insipid. 
- Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin 

SWEET AND SAVORY LAMB STEW

Lamb for 4: thick chops, slices of leg or shoulder
Flour for dredging
Margarine and olive oil for sautéeing
2 onions, peeled, trimmed and chopped
1 clove garlic, mashed but not chopped
1 large zucchini, round or long, trimmed and chopped into small chunks
½ red pepper, chopped
2 Tbs cider vinegar
½ tsp Adobo chili powder
1 – 2 tsps schwarma spice blend * (see below the recipe), can also be replaced by ½ tsp ground cumin + ½ tsp ground coriander + 1/8 tsp turmeric + dash paprika or any one of these to taste
1 tsp sugar
2 – 3 Tbs golden raisins
1 – 2 Tbs slivered almonds, lightly toasted

Dredge the lamb in flour and shake off the excess. Heat about a tablespoon each margarine and olive oil in a deep sautée pan, skillet or pot. When hot and steaming, brown the lamb pieces on both sides. Once browned, remove from the pan onto a plate or platter and set aside.

Add a bit more margarine and olive oil to the pot and add the chopped onion, garlic and red pepper and sautée, stirring often, until the onion bits are transparent, tender and begin to brown around the edges. Remove the garlic (discard) and add the teaspoon sugar and the small cubes of zucchini continue to cook until the onion is caramelized a deep golden brown and the zucchini and red pepper is tender. Add the cider vinegar to deglaze the pan: while the vinegar quickly evaporates, scrape up the blackened bits on the bottom of the pan until it all melts into the liquid; add a bit of water if needed.

Add the lamb back into the pan with the raisins and the spices, salt and pepper and add water just to cover. Bring just to the boil then lower the heat, cover and allow to simmer gently over very low heat for 1 hour 30 minutes, adding water as necessary.

Once finished cooking and the lamb fork tender, taste to adjust seasonings. Allow to sit and rest for as much time as possible (this is not necessary but we find that the flavors meld and the sauce thickens while the meat tenderizes even further), 30 minutes to an hour or prepare early in the day for dinner. Reheat gently just before serving (allow to simmer gently if you desire a thicker sauce.

Serve over rice or couscous grains topped with lightly toasted slivered almonds for crunch.


* Shawarma spice blend is a North African mix of ground spices which flavor tagines and grilled meats. If can be made at home by stirring together the following ground spices – or simply replace in this recipe with about ½ tsp ground cumin + ½ tsp ground coriander and a dash of cinnamon:

1 Tbs cumin
1 Tbs coriander
1 Tbs garlic powder
½ Tbs paprika
1 tsp turmeric
½ tsp cloves
½ tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp black pepper
½ tsp cinnamon

Spicy Lamb & Feta Gözleme with a North African Twist

INTERLUDE IN THE KITCHEN


Have I even cooked yet since my return from Florida? I cannot remember. Time is flitting by on wings…. No, more like time is rushing by on wheels as it is pushed down a steep mountain. Where does it go? I have a bucketful of projects that seem to be standing around my desk, hands on hips, feet tapping earnestly as each waits…demands.. its turn and my attention.

The funny thing is, I brought back a stack of cooking magazines from the US and from Ireland, magazines stuffed from cover to cover with tempting recipes. I sit and flip through each and every one and ogle this photo and that, peruse the recipes and concoct plans to make so many of them. And then I sit back down at my laptop and start writing again. When I finally look up at the clock it is lunchtime or dinnertime, too late to cook. And when I mention baking, my men balk and begin ranting and begging for me to stay away from the sweet treats for just a bit. It is no wonder that I haven’t cooked in ages.



On the other hand, when it comes to my projects and work, I am…cooking! All of those magazines were purchased as resources rather than for the recipes, truth be told. They infuse me with creative energy and get the business juices flowing. I finished turning my Florida interview into a story and sent it off. My interviews of local chefs and food gurus are going swimmingly as I prepare three separate pieces from them. I am now in contact with another editor interested in our work. My head is flooded with story ideas just waiting for the chance to flow out onto the page. And my own personal editor/mentor/friend has now put me on a schedule for my book chapters. Can it get any better, any more productive than this?

Husband and I have the house to ourselves for the week; one son is away sailing as the other sleeps off the effects of a birthday weekend before slogging through two tough project presentations. The sun – finally the sun – splatters through the windows and onto tabletops and carpets, adding a hint of warmth to the June chill. Summer’s stone fruits are now heaped in bowls on the kitchen counter, the sheets crumpled and twisted on unmade beds, the television droning in the background competing with the city’s ordinary, everyday noises bursting joyfully, aggressively through the windows. The hum of the printer, the ringing of the telephone, the clatter of fingers on keyboard come from his office at the back of the apartment as we both work from home. There really is nothing to keep us from cooking.

Yet… one photograph from the BBC Good Food magazine – brought to me from London by my charming and thoughtful writing instructor buddy Jeanne – of Spiced Lamb & Feta Gözleme kept coming back to me, haunting me with the scents and flavors of something exotic, warming, delicious. I so wanted to taste the Gözleme that I finally gathered the courage to go out and pick up the ingredients needed and make them.


What is a Gözleme, you ask? Gözleme is a Turkish savory, filled pastry, the dough hand rolled then wrapped around a filling and sealed. The filled pocket is brushed with butter or oil and then cooked in a skillet or on a griddle. A woman at our market actually makes them, hers filled with feta or herbs or meat. I glanced over the list of ingredients in the magazine, which had a rather Greek spin to it, and decided to change it and give it a more North Africa twist, similar to my Lamb Triangles. I changed out the spices, added in caramelized onions and flavored the browned lamb with tomato purée and pomegranate molasses. Raisins heightened the touch of sweetness, pine nuts added a wonderfully toothsome crunch.


The resulting Gözleme were divine! The dough – just slightly adjusted from the magazine’s recipe – was a snap to make and, once cooked, was light and fluffy with just the right denseness to add a bit of chew. The filling was flavorful, the perfect balance between sweet and savory, meat and feta. One must only be extremely careful in rolling out, filling, folding, brushing and flipping the dough and the pastry to avoid any ripping – the dough is very delicate and any holes in the dough and the filling will escape!

I served this with a spicy and sweet chutney, but it would also be delicious served with an herbed yogurt dipping sauce. But personally, I loved them served as is; they needed nothing at all to be perfect.


I am sharing this with Susan of Wild Yeast for her weekly Yeastspotting!

Life's a Feast now has its very own Facebook page! Simply like the page to join in the discussion, meet new friends and join the community!

Don't miss one Plated Stories post! Join us on Facebook and don't forget to sign up for email alerts!

SPICY LAMB & FETA GÖZLEME PASTRIES
Makes and serves 4

For the dough:

1 packet (7 g) dry active yeast
1Tbs golden granulated sugar
2/3 cup (175 ml) warm water
9 oz (250 g) flour + more for kneading
½ tsp salt
2 Tbs olive oil + more for brushing the pastry

For the filling:

1 – 2 Tbs olive oil
1 lb (500 g) ground/minced lamb – or a combination of lamb and beef, if preferred
1 small – medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 slightly rounded tsp ground cumin
1 slightly rounded tsp ground coriander
¾ tsp ground cinnamon
¾ tsp ground chili or chipotle chili powder, or more or less to taste
Salt and pepper
2 Tbs tomato purée, more to taste if desired
2 Tbs pomegranate molasses, more or less to taste as desired
2 oz (50 g) raisins
2 oz (50 g) good quality pine nuts
4 oz (100 g) drained feta cheese, crumbled

Prepare the dough:

Place the golden granulated sugar and the dry yeast in a small mixing bowl. Add the warm/tepid (not hot) water to the yeast and sugar and allow to stand for about 15 minutes until the yeast is activated and the mixture foamy.

Put the flour in a medium to large mixing bowl and stir in the salt. Make a well in the center of the flour and add the yeast mixture and the olive oil. Using a wooden spoon, stir until blended and all of the dry ingredients have been moistened. Scrape the dough out onto a floured board or work surface and knead for 8 – 10 minutes, flouring the work surface and the dough only as needed. After 8 to 10 minutes, the kneaded dough should be smooth, soft and elastic, not dry but not sticky.

Lightly oil the inside of a medium to large bowl and place the round ball of dough into the bowl, turning the dough to oil evenly. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and then a clean kitchen towel and set aside to rise, at least doubled in size, about an hour.

Meanwhile, prepare the lamb filling:

Have everything prepared – the onion and garlic chopped, the spices, raisins and pine nuts measured out, etc.

Heat a skillet over medium heat. Add the pine nuts and cook very quickly, stirring constantly so they do not burn, just until toasted (they will begin to turn a golden brown). Remove quickly from the heat, scraping the pine nuts into a waiting bowl.

Return the skillet to the heat and add a tablespoon of olive oil. Add the chopped onion and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the onion is tender and golden brown around the edges. Add the chopped or minced garlic and cook, stirring, for another couple of minutes until the garlic is tender (but not colored). Add another tablespoon of olive oil and then the minced/ground lamb and cook, stirring and chopping the meat to break up any lumps, until cooked through and browning, no longer pink.

Stir in the spices as well as the salt and pepper until evenly coating the meat and cook, stirring, for a minute or two. Add the toasted pine nuts, the raisins as well as 2 tablespoons each of the tomato purée and the pomegranate molasses, stirring to blend. Cook, stirring, for a few minutes until the meat is done and the flavors are melded. Remove from the heat and allow to cool just for a few minutes until just cool enough to handle. If prepared ahead of time, gently heat the filling through until warm before preparing the Gözleme – adding just a bit of water while reheating will help to keep the mixture from burning as well as bring back moisture to the meat.

Prepare the Gözleme pastries:

Have both the warm (but not hot) filling and the crumbled feta ready. Also have ready a small bowl with several tablespoons of olive oil and a clean pastry brush as well as a good skillet or grill.

Scrape the risen dough onto a floured work surface and divide into four even pieces. Working one piece of dough at a time, pat the dough into a rectangle and place on the board in front of you lengthwise perpendicular to your body. Gently roll the dough into a 8 x 10 inch (20 x 25 cm) rectangle, being very careful to keep the dough an even thickness and not to tear, split or weaken the dough.

Place ¼ of the lamb filling on the bottom half of the dough rectangle, leaving a ¾-inch (2-cm) edge on the 3 sides of the dough of the bottom half of the rectangle (the space covered by filling). Pat the filling until it evenly covers the space.

Place ¼ of the crumbled feta cheese on top of the lamb filling, dispersing it evenly over the lamb. Do not forget the feta!


Very gently and lightly brush a very small amount of olive oil on the edge of the dough - the 3 sides around the filling - and then bring the top half of the rectangle of dough down over the filling to create a pocket or turnover. Match the edges, pressing the top dough to the bottom and sealing. Very gently brush the sealed edges with a bit more olive oil and gently roll the edge over onto itself to form a rim. Very gently brush/pat a bit of olive oil all over the top of the Gözleme pastry, including the rim.




(I keep repeating very gently because the dough is incredibly light and fragile and it must not rip!)

Heat the skillet or grill over medium heat. Very gently and carefully (the dough is soft and fragile and must not rip) lift the pastry off of the work surface (I used a pastry/cake lifter and my fingers) and, once the skillet is hot, flip the pastry into the pan olive oil side down and press all around with the back of a spatula for even cooking. As the pan-side of the pastry cooks, gently brush/dab the flip side (now facing up) with olive oil. Cook the pastry until the pan side of the dough is a deep golden brown – the dough will puff as it cooks – and then very carefully flip the Gözleme over to cook the other side until golden brown.


Serve immediately, eat joyfully.

Lamb Goulash and a Book

WHERE DO I GO FROM HERE?


A game of cat and mouse, this trying to find the time to skype with a friend, a book agent. Meanwhile, I put words on paper and as the moment approaches to place it on the blog, the fear washes over me and I turn to something else, tucking the words, the bits and pieces of the story away for later. Doubt. Oh, not the doubt of writing the story, but opening up my reasons for telling that story. Which are complex and abundant. Fine line between indignation and telling my truth?

In so many ways I have lived the dream, lived out the fantasy of picking up and moving to France. I’ve roamed the cobbled, fabled streets of Paris, eaten my fair share of croissants, dined on oysters in Brittany, taken the boat to Porquerolles, stood in the Cathedral in Strasbourg, looked out over the beaches of Omaha and Utah before heading to Barfleur for moules frites. I’ve sipped Champagne in Parisian brasseries, taken clients into the kitchens of Michelin-starred restaurants and now live in the city of Jules Verne and Jacques Demy. I have even spent close to seven years in Italy and taken a bumpy ride to Nigeria. I married the romantic Frenchman, raised two multi-cultural sons and have lived happily ever after.

Well, almost.



I do not want to perpetuate the myth about France and the French as have so many women who, like I, picked up and moved here. And wrote about it. Too many of those books smack of a sheltered existence, of hobnobbing with the privileged few, of feigning a poor bohemian existence while enjoying the luxury of money, connections and a well-planned life. Too many are the recounting of a fairytale, the story of a young woman playing ragtag American while buying her silk wedding gown and putting down the deposit on a first apartment or sitting in a well-appointed kitchen in the 8th with a selection of well-dressed françaises exuding confidence, perfection and Chanel. Too many are the all-too entertaining fable of a perfect life, humorous Frenchmen, quaint country villages and extravagant, delectable meals.

Rather, mine is the story of a girl who drops everything on a whim, fed up with her going-nowhere, underpaid life in New York city, bundles up her belongings in trash bags and dumps them on the curb outside her Brooklyn apartment, empties her meager savings account, packs two battered suitcases and flies off to Paris not so much for an adventure as on the search for a new life. Shy, a tad angry, fed up and running away from herself, she heads to France because, well, she studied French in high school, didn’t she?

The tale I have to offer is one of a girl hunkering down in an unfamiliar country out of stubbornness and safety, learning the rules while stumbling through the ins and outs of a new language and strict social guidelines, all a great mystery, fumbling and mumbling and tripping over her own feet (when said feet are not firmly inserted in mouth) more often than not. It is the story of an odd upbringing, an idyllic childhood shrouded in darkness and pain, joy and curiosity; a chronicle of times lived unexpectedly, illness and death, love and marriage, parenthood and an accidental, unpredictable education in life.


I have indeed lived an adventure albeit one that caught me by surprise, an extraordinary tale for my readers. Many hold up my marriage as an object of desire, a model of the ever-elusive "perfect marriage", yet perfection can be an illusion. We met accidentally, married hastily dressed in flea market finds and sharing a home-cooked meal with a handful of friends. We faced the world together with nothing more than an eclectic education, curiosity, one double mattress and love.

Romance and adventure in which real life sometimes gets in the way.

And as I toss a flurry of words on the page and wonder what to share with you here and how, I cook. Although the middle of May, it is still very much winter in Nantes. Chilly days punctuated by rain, we turn to the warmth and comfort of soups and stews, thick, rich and hearty. I recently pulled an old favorite of mine out of the archives, dusted it off and served it up hot and flavorful. Spoon yourself a bowlful, pull up a chair and savor, accompanied by a good book.


LAMB GOULASH

Olive oil
3 – 4 medium onions, cut in half and thinly sliced
1 Tbs sugar
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 Tbs sweet Hungarian paprika
1 tsp smoky paprika
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
3 Tbs or 2 small cans tomato paste
2 Tbs balsamic vinegar
4 cups (1 liter) chicken stock
2 lbs (1 kg) boneless lamb shoulder
1 tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 or 3 carrots, trimmed, peeled and sliced into thick coins
Fresh parsley, coarsely chopped
6 ½ - 7 oz (200 – 300 g) white mushrooms, trimmed, cleaned and quartered or chunked
 1 - 2 Tbs 15 – 30 g) margarine or butter
7 oz (200 ml) heavy cream, sour cream or Greek yogurt (sour cream or Greek yogurt will add a wonderful tang)

In a large pan or Dutch oven with a lid, heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil. Add the onions and the sugar and, stirring, sauté over low or medium-low heat until the onions are caramelized, 8 to 10 minutes. Once the onions are caramelized a deep golden brown, add the minced garlic and cook, stirring, for another minute.

Stir in the sweet and smoky paprikas, the thyme leaves and the bay leaf. Sauté an additional minute, stirring constantly.

Add the tomato paste and stir until everything is well blended. Add the balsamic vinegar and deglaze, scraping up the brown bits of onion and tomato stuck to the bottom of the pot. Add the chunks of lamb and the sliced carrots and toss to coat. Salt and pepper. Toss in a handful of freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley.

Add the chicken stock to just cover. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to a simmer. Cover the pot and simmer for 1 hour 15 minutes.

Before this cooking time is up, sauté the chunks of mushroom in butter or margarine in a small saucepan until tender and golden on the edges. Add to the goulash at the end of the 1 hour 15 minutes then allow the goulash to continue to simmer for an additional 15 minutes. Remove from the heat.


Once the goulash is off the heat, stir in the cream or yogurt and serve immediately over fresh pasta, preferably pappardelle or other wide, flat ribbon-type pasta.





I have also prepared this lamb goulash with herbed biscuits baked atop the finished goulash.

AUTUMN VEAL STEW

LET IT RAIN, LET IT RAIN, LET IT RAIN!

Many a man curses the rain that falls upon his head, and knows not that it brings abundance to drive away the hunger.
~Saint Basil

The rain has begun. It has washed away the golden glow of autumn, the brilliantly blue skies have melted into unpolished pewter, the gentle cool breeze has yielded to the cruel, chill wind and icy patter of rain. Rain, incessant rain, has taken over our world and wrapped us in her gloomy blanket of gray. The dampness seeps into our bones and we huddle together for warmth. And we dream of stew. Soup is fine and dandy for some, but nothing warms you to the marrow like a thick, rich, hearty stew. Chunks of meltingly tender meat long-simmered in a rich broth infused with the earthiness of thick slices of carrots, onions, mushrooms heightened by the gentle tang of white wine all blended together into a perfect mellow sensation. Served over rice or homemade pasta to be slurped up with the last of the sauce as you push back your chair from the table, satisfied.

The first days of autumn, the bright sun adding a gentle warmth to the mellowing temperatures, the crackle of gold and red leaves underfoot, bring a joy to my heart and a spring to my step. It is absolutely my favorite season. Weekends are spent walking the dog through the vineyards outside of Nantes or taking strolls through the city. The summer fruits are making way for the burnt orange of pumpkins and sweet potatoes, the deep violets of figs and plums, the tumble of grapes and the pyramids of pale green pears and apples snuggled up next to the warm woodsy browns of the walnuts and chestnuts. But then all is suddenly washed away as the rains sweep in, calling our attention to the change of seasons like a slap in the face.


Don't threaten me with love, baby. Let's just go walking in the rain.
~ Billie Holiday

I love the rain. I love being snuggled up inside as the water drizzles down the windowpanes and spatters on the cobblestones outside. It is the ultimate in cozy: sipping coffee, nestled in one’s favorite armchair, book in hand listening to the rhythmic patter of raindrops on the roof. Even the flash of lightening and the distant groan of thunder are exciting when warm and snug inside. But when the rain and the cold let themselves in and bring with them an unexpected dampness, forgotten sometime through the heat of the summer, and sitting still for even a few minutes has us grabbing for a thick, down-filled comforter and slipping on a second pair of socks, then all I want to do is migrate towards the kitchen, push baking sheets of dough into the oven as the heat and the smell of cinnamon wash over me and I simply begin to chop vegetables.


Some people walk in the rain, others just get wet.
~Roger Miller

This Autumn Veal Stew is simple, pure, uncluttered pleasure made with the most basic of ingredients: tender, slow-simmered meat, I chose veal today, the richness of tomato paste adding depth to the meaty sauce, a splash of wine and the hint of garlic bringing life and zing to the dish. The added texture and deeper, earthier flavor of a selection of mushrooms complements the usual, lowly carrot and onion and together they bring a luxuriousness to an otherwise simple stew.


The best thing one can do when it's raining is to let it rain.
~Henry Wadsworth Longfellow


I was extremely excited to have my Fouace Nantaise featured on Saveur.com as The Daily Fare and Life's a Feast added to their Sites We Love club. I was proud and honored.

AUTUMN VEAL STEW

28 oz (800 g) veal for stew *
1 cup (125 g) flour seasoned with salt, pepper & smoky paprika for dredging veal
2 Tbs (30 g) butter or margarine + 2 Tbs olive oil
1 large yellow onion, trimmed, peeled and slice into 8 - 10 wedges (depending on size of onion)
1 or 2 carrots, trimmed, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch (½ cm) thick coins
2 - 3 cloves garlic, peeled, cloves crushed
2 Tbs or 1 small can tomato paste (concentrate)
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine
1 cup (250 ml) water
Bouquet garni or 1 large bay leaf, 1 branch rosemary & a few branches fresh or dried thyme
½ - 1 tsp smoky paprika, to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbs (30 g) butter or margarine
10 oz (300 g) fresh mushrooms of choice

* I used both ossobuco and veal shoulder. I found the ossobuco came out much more tender and I’ll use only this cut for future stews. You can also make this with chunks of lamb shoulder.


Heat the butter or margarine with the olive oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Rinse and pat dry the pieces of veal then dredge each piece in the seasoned flour, making sure all sides are floured and shaking off the excess. Brown both sides of the veal.

When the veal is browned on all sides, add the onion wedges, the carrot coins and the crushed garlic. Tossing often, cook the vegetables with the meat until the vegetables are beginning to color and are slightly tender.

Add the tomato paste, wine, water, herbs or bouquet garni, the salt, pepper and paprika. Stir to combine and then bring just up to the boil. Turn the heat to low, cover almost completely (I always leave the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape so the sauce thickens) and allow to simmer for 1 hour.

About 15 minutes before the end of cooking, clean and trim the mushrooms and cut into large chunks. Sauté the mushroom chunks in butter or margarine until softened and beginning to brown around the edges. Salt and pepper. Feel free to add a squeeze of lemon if you like. Add the cooked mushrooms to the stew for the last 10 to 15 minutes of cooking.

Check the meat and allow to cook a bit more if not yet ideally tender. Top up the sauce with a bit more water if it evaporates or thickens too quickly. Taste and adjust seasonings towards the end of cooking.

Serve over rice or pasta.


LAMB GOULASH WITH BISCUITS

WHITE CHRISTMAS
With my excuses to that other Jew Irving Berlin


I’m dreaming of a white Christmas
Just like the one I never knew.
Where the rooftops shimmer
My eyes do glimmer
As I stare at the lovely view.

I’m dreaming of a white Christmas
Where I can stay in and bake all day.
Where Marty snuggles
And Jamie juggles
Mixing bowls and baking trays.

I’m dreaming of a white Christmas
With every blog post that I write.
Where the airports shut down
The town’s in lockdown
And we must eat by candlelight.

I’m dreaming of a white Christmas
While something simmers on the fire.
Goulash di-vine
He’ll pop some good wine
It’s all that one could so desire.

I’m dreaming of a white Christmas.
And I wish the same for all of you.
May the food be abundant and good!
Wishing all the very season’s best to you!


Crisp, cold weather outside, warm and toasty inside, wonderful aromas wafting from the kitchen, the wine chilling and the cake frosted. Home. This is the perfect winter evening to me. I really don’t need anything else. Oh, we’ve spent Decembers in Florida basking in the tropical warmth, eating oranges off the tree and driving around the neighborhood looking at the fantastic, gaudy array of Christmas decorations. We’ve spent a luxurious, pampered, romantic Christmas at a Palace hotel in the center of Paris overlooking the stunning, frosted fairytale white Tuileries, nibbling petits fours and sipping champagne. We’ve spent family Christmases on both sides filled with laughter and excited children, holiday specials on TV, tables laden with food and gifts. We’ve spent the holidays strolling through Italian street fairs and sharing the food, fun and singing with our adopted Italian family up at the farm. But after all these years, I still think home is the best.


I was in the mood for stew the other night, something rich and warming and flavorful. I loved the idea of a goulash, redolent of tomato and paprika (the sweet from Budapest, the smoky from New York) but craved lamb. And so wanted biscuits. So I put the whole thing together, and how simple it was! By the time JP walked in the door from a hard day’s work and a frosty trip home, the house was filled with the fabulous aroma of goulash, putting a smile on his work-worn face.


Sometimes we want something hearty and succulent, a bowl of goodness to warm our insides while outside it is cold and wintry, yet we just don’t have the time or the desire to spend standing in front of the worktop and stove, what with all the holiday shopping and baking, the piles of gifts to wrap and the cards to fill out and send. We pull on another pair of wooly socks and wrap another sweater around us and all we yearn for is a place on the sofa in front of the fire or an old black & white film, savoring something delicious, something good for both body and soul.


This wonderful Lamb Goulash takes only minutes to put together, then it is simply left simmering on the stovetop, filling your home with an amazing aroma and fairly cooking itself. You can even prepare this early in the day and just warm it up on the burner before finishing the dish in the oven. Whip up a batch of homemade biscuits, roll, cut and layer onto the goulash in a baking dish and bake until the biscuits are fluffy, risen and golden and the goulash is bubbling. A perfect wintertime meal!

LAMB GOULASH WITH BISCUITS

Olive oil
3 – 4 medium onions, cut in half and thinly sliced
1 Tbs sugar
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 Tbs sweet Hungarian paprika
1 tsp smoky paprika
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
3 Tbs or 2 small cans tomato paste
2 Tbs balsamic vinegar
4 cups (1 liter) chicken stock
2 ½ lbs (1.2 kg) boneless lamb shoulder
1 tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 carrots, trimmed, peeled and sliced into coins
Fresh parsley
6 ½ - 7 oz (200 – 300 g) white mushrooms, trimmed, cleaned and cut into chunks
1 - 2 Tbs 15 – 30 g) margarine or butter
7 oz (200 ml) heavy cream or Greek yogurt (Greek yogurt will add a wonderful tang)


BISCUITS:
2 cups (250 g) flour
4 tsps baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
½ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 stick (115 g) unsalted butter, cubed
2/3 cups (165) cold milk, or as needed
Egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 Tbs water), optional


Prepare the Goulash:

In a large pan or Dutch oven with lid, heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil. Add the onions and the sugar and, stirring, sauté until the onions are caramelized. This will take several minutes. Once the onions are caramelized a deep golden brown, add the minced garlic and cook, stirring, for another minute.


Add the sweet and smoky paprikas, the thyme leaves and the bay leaf. Sauté an additional minute, stirring constantly.


Add the tomato paste and stir until everything is well blended. Add the balsamic vinegar, scraping up the brown bits of onion and tomato stuck to the bottom and deglaze. Add the chunks of lamb and the sliced carrots and toss to coat. Salt and pepper. Toss in a handful of freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley.


Add the chicken stock to cover. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer. Cover the pot and simmer for 1 hour 15 minutes.


Before this cooking time is up, sauté the chunks of mushroom in butter or margarine in a small saucepan until tender and golden on the edges. Add to the goulash at the end of the 1 hour 15 minutes then allow the goulash to continue to simmer for an additional 15 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Once the goulash is off the heat, stir in the cream or yogurt.

Prepare the biscuits:

Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C).

Put the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar and chopped fresh parsley into a large mixing bowl. Add the cubes of butter and, using your fingertips, rub the butter into the flour until blended and the mixture resembles cornmeal or damp sand. Add the milk, a little at a time, mixing with a fork until the dough forms into a (just slightly sticky) ball.

Scrape the dough out onto a floured surface and, working quickly and with the balls of your hands (your palms will heat the mixture and the butter will get too sticky), smear the dough in an outward motion away from you in several movements until you have smeared all of the dough once - this will incorporate all of the butter into the dough. Scrape the dough back into a ball and knead very quickly just until the dough is blended, uniform and silky smooth. At this point you can wrap it in plastic wrap and put it into the fridge for several minutes if the dough is too sticky; this will make it easier to roll out.


Roll out the dough to a thickness of 3/8 – ½ inch (@ 1 cm) and cut out round of dough with a cookie or biscuit cutter. Brush the tops of the biscuits gently with egg wash if you like.

Pour the goulash into a large oven baking dish. Gently place the cut biscuits all over the surface of the goulash.


Place in the preheated oven and bake for 10 – 12 minutes or until biscuits are well risen and just starting to brown around the edges and the goulash is bubbling.

Serve hot.


This is a fabulous goulash and the biscuits are the perfect accompaniment and were a huge hit with the family. But if you like, go ahead and serve the goulash from the pot over fresh noodles or even boiled potatoes.

Labels

أحدث المواضيع

 
Support : Creating Website | Johny Template | Mas Template
Copyright © 2013. Entries General - All Rights Reserved
Template Created by Creating Website Published by Mas Template
Proudly powered by Blogger